For those of us who go slightly weak at the knees over diamonds, there's little more thrilling than the world of engagement rings.
But, as is tradition, more often than not the one actually shopping for said ring is rarely the one who'll end up wearing it for (hopefully!) the rest of their lives.
Which is why, if you know what you like and feel you may be in the market for one in the coming weeks/months/years, it doesn't hurt to hint… whether subtly or not.
Take it from someone who sent several hints – one in the form of a bullet-pointed list detailing the exact cut, clarity, setting and metal she would love one day (he was very generously allowed to decide on the prong setting; plumping for button, if you're interested) – if you have a strong vision you'd be wise to share it. No one deserves to be confronted by an even remotely disappointed face after having meticulously planned a proposal.
If you don't know exactly what you'd like but would like to be involved in the design in some way, we caught up with some of our favourite engagement ring designers to discover the key trends for 2024. Consider this all the inspo you need…
What the experts say: “More and more our clients are asking for old-cut diamonds,” Lucy Crowther of Minka Jewels revealed to GLAMOUR UK, “and we feel that antique stones are the perfect choice for those who are environmentally conscious but don’t want a lab-grown stone. There is something very special about old cut diamonds; the beauty and mystery of these stones are very alluring; the fact that they have lived through many eras and have been cut by hand, they have a unique character and the bigger facets allow light to bounce around inside the stone differently which creates a beautiful warm candle-lit glow.”
Kimaï co-founder and GIA certified gemologist, Sidney Neuhaus, agrees, explaining: “Clients are increasingly drawn to rings that exude an old-world charm, featuring intricate details, filigree work, and ornate settings reminiscent of bygone eras. The trend captures the essence of nostalgia and romanticism, offering a nod to the past while creating a distinctive and opulent symbol of commitment for the modern couple who seeks a touch of grandeur in their love story.”
What the experts say: “I’m getting more requests than ever for white metals to be used for engagement rings”, says Jessie Thomas. “This is especially true when the client is opting for a coloured stone ring, as they work well with the neutrality of white.”
“I'll often set diamonds into white gold, even in a predominantly yellow gold piece, as it shows of the stones more fully. It’s quite a cool, utilitarian look that I find people are looking for. I’m also black rhodium plating white gold a lot; it feels modern and really makes diamonds pop.”
What the experts say: “Ever a popular cut”, explains Emma Clarkson Webb, “we’re still seeing the oval cut diamond as a strong choice for an engagement ring. Super flattering and elegant due to its shape, it’s often set on its own in a striking single stone design – or we like to pair it alongside pear cut diamonds or tapered baguette cut diamonds. The proportions and ratio of an oval cut are key to get right, to avoid what’s called the ‘bow tie’ effect – which casts a black shadow appearing similar to a bow tie in the centre of the stone.”
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“In October,” revealed the team at The Diamond Store, “sales increased by 90% on oval stone rings prior to the previous month. These styles look fantastic on brides to be as they give the illusion of long delicate fingers.”
“For us at LYLIE Jewellery”, explains founder Eliza Walter, “the diamond shape (or ‘cut,' as we call it) of the moment has been the oval. Oval cuts can look 10% larger than rounds of the same carat weight and save you about 20% on the price tag. They are also super elegant and, we think, elongate the wearer’s finger. We have noticed a lot of interest in oval cuts in the last few months and see that growing through 2024.”
What the experts say: “Because the lab-grown diamonds market is rising year after year with excellent prices, the demand when it comes to bridal is driven by bigger carat rings,” according to Courbet. “Despite the quiet luxury trend, customers want to go big, and don’t hesitate to ask for two, three and four-carat engagement rings.”
Lab-grown jewellery label Matilde Jewellery clearly agrees, with the founder herself having received a beautiful lab-grown engagement ring earlier this year. “These diamonds are created in controlled laboratory settings using advanced technological processes that replicate the natural conditions under which diamonds form in the Earth's mantle,” she explains. This innovation allows couples to choose a stunning, genuine diamond without the ethical and environmental concerns associated with traditional diamond mining.”
“Lab-grown diamonds share the same physical, chemical and optical characteristics as their mined counterparts, making them virtually indistinguishable to the naked eye. Beyond their ethical appeal, these diamonds often come with a more affordable price tag, allowing couples to invest in a larger, higher-quality stone within their budget.”
“People are making more conscious decisions,” explained the team at The Diamond Store, “and they want their engagement ring to mirror their ethics regarding sustainability and eco-friendliness. It’s no wonder lab-grown diamonds are so popular.”
What the experts say: “Our clients cannot get enough of coloured stones,” reveals Emma Clarkson Webb, “whether it be sapphires in pink, teal, green or blue, emeralds or rubies or a coloured yellow diamond. Coloured stones always look more expensive if they're set alongside diamonds, to really help them pop.”
The Diamond Store revealed that they are “also noticing a trend of customers opting for gemstone engagement rings, which coordinate with their or their partners’ birthstones – mostly emeralds.”
Rachel Boston agrees, explaining that “as timeless as classic white diamonds are, we are getting more and more clients inquiring about alternative diamonds, and the two most popular are light yellow diamonds and champagne diamonds. These are subtly coloured diamonds that range from canary yellow to amber-like brown and peach-coloured hues – they've got the sparkle of a traditional diamond, with soft, buttery colours to boot. Each diamond will have its own unique colour and character, which we love. Champagne diamonds especially are a really nice compromise for people drawn to the classic elegance of diamonds, but who still want something a little bit different: they're subtle but eye-catching.”
What the experts say: “Not sure if this is a trend, or an ever-lasting style, but I am getting far more requests for round diamonds that I ever have before,” Jessie Thomas revealed. “I think the balance has landed around having a unique deign but keeping the diamond classic in terms of shape.”
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“The oval is still my second most popular shape, but I have noticed that the move away from round is definitely over. People still want an individual and unique ring, whether that is more chunky or sculptural in shape, but the classic element is retained by placing a brilliant at the centre.”
What the experts say: “Bold designs that represent the style of the client is also something we are seeing; the design journey being the main focus and the choosing of the centre stone for its colour, clarity and value”, explained Minka's Lucy Crowther.
“We expect clients to increasingly opt for unique, personalised designs that break free from traditional expectations,” agreed the team at Kimaï. “These avant-garde rings may feature non-traditional shapes, asymmetrical settings, reflecting the individuality and distinctive tastes of the wearers. This trend celebrates creativity and personal expression, emphasising the idea that love and commitment are as diverse and unique as the individuals involved.”
“Customers increasingly are looking for something unique and different, and we don’t expect this trend to slow down,” predicts The Diamond Store. “We expect customers will keep wanting alternative designs, styles and gemstone shapes/colour.”
Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, co-founder and creative director at Courbet, agrees, revealing that they have recently “witnessed the come-back of very architectural designs, with a lot of gold, strong lines”.
What the experts say: According to Rachel Boston, “multi-stone styles such as toi-et-moi rings will still be going strong: they keep on growing in popularity!”
“Given that they're so versatile, and a great jumping off point to explore endless combinations of shapes, colours, and gemstones, I can really see the appeal. All of the toi-et-moi rings we've made have been completely different from the last, so they're also a fun design to explore as a designer, a great exercise in translating the client's personality into a playful but elegant ring.”
What the experts say: “Baguette diamonds are back on trend,” according to the team at Smiling Rocks. “We have launched a new collection called ‘Baguette Bridal’ rings with bypass baguette rings set in channel setting and a two-carat centre lab grown diamond. The ring automatically becomes bold and elegant.”
What the experts say: “Smiling Rocks has a new ‘Moti Bridal’ collection featuring freshwater pearls as side stones for the bridal ring,” explains the in-house team. “The pearls uplift the feminine vibe in the engagement ring, added as a new side-stone option combined with lab grown diamonds for new brides. Pearls traditionally have been used mainly as a centre stone in an engagement ring, so we decided to do the opposite and our brides love them.”
What the experts say: “We have witnessed a higher demand for bespoke creations,” reveals Courbet's Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, “probably because jewellery, fashion, and luxury items in general are more and more tools for self expression. Our customers want a unique piece, and are ready to pay more to have a ring that would reflect their personality and their lifestyle.”
For more from Glamour UK's Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.
