Peugeot 405 (petrol) Service and Repair Manual

Peugeot 405 (petrol) 

Service and Repair Manual 

Steve Rendle and A K Legg LAE MIMI 

Models covered 

Saloon and Estate models with 4-cylinder SOHC and DOHC petrol engines, 

including Mi-16 and special/limited editions; 

1.4 (1360 cc), 1.6 (1580 cc), 1.8 (1761 cc), 1.9 (1905 cc) and 2.0 (1998 cc) 

(1559-336) 

For Diesel engine models, see OWM 3198 

Does not cover four-wheel-drive models 

© Haynes Publishing 1996 

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series 

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted 

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including 

photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, 

without permission in writing from the copyright holder. 

ISBN 1 85960 174 X 

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data 

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. 

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, 

Somerset BA22 7JJ 

Haynes Publishing 

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England 

Haynes North America, Inc 

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA 

Editions Haynes S.A. 

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Contents 

LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 405 

Introduction to the Peugeot 405 Page 0•4 

Safety first! Page 0•5 

Roadside Repairs 

If your car won’t start Page 0•6 

Jump starting Page 0•7 

Wheel changing Page 0•8 

Identifying leaks Page 0•9 

Towing Page 0•9 

Weekly Checks 

Introduction Page 0•10 

Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 

Engine oil level Page 0•12 

Coolant level Page 0•12 

Brake fluid level Page 0•13 

Power steering fluid level Page 0•13 

Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 

Screen washer fluid level Page 0•15 

Wiper blades Page 0•15 

Battery Page 0•16 

Bulbs and fuses Page 0•16 

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Page 0•17 

MAINTENANCE 

Routine Maintenance and Servicing 

Peugeot 405 petrol models Page 1•1 

Maintenance schedule - models up to 1993 Page 1•3 

Maintenance schedule - models from 1994 Page 1•4 

Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Contents 

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL 

Engine and Associated Systems 

TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1 

XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures 

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 

Page 2B•1 

Page 2C•1 

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1 

Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 

Fuel/exhaust systems - single-point fuel injection models 

Fuel/exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection models 

Emission control systems 

Page 4B•1 

Page 4C•1 

Page 4D•1 

Starting and charging systems Page 5A•1 

Ignition system 

Page 5B•1 

Transmission 

Clutch Page 6•1 

Manual transmission Page 7A•1 

Automatic transmission 

Page 7B•1 

Driveshafts Page 8•1 

Brakes and Suspension 

Braking system Page 9•1 

Suspension and steering Page 10•1 

Body equipment 

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 

Body electrical systems Page 12•1 

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•22 

REFERENCE 

Dimensions and weights Page REF•1 

Conversion factors Page REF•2 

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3 

General repair procedures Page REF•4 

Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5 

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution Page REF•5 

Tools and working facilities Page REF•6 

MOT test checks Page REF•8 

Fault finding 

Page REF•12 

Glossary of technical terms 

Page REF•20 

Index 

Page REF•25

0•4 Introduction 

The Peugeot 405 model range was introduced into the UK in 

January 1988 in Saloon form only. 

Available with 1.6, 1.8, 1.9 and 2.0 engines, all models have frontwheel-drive 

with all round independent suspension. 

Automatic transmission models were introduced in April 1988. 

In July 1988 came the sporty Mi 16 version with its 1.9 litre double 

overhead cam, 16-valve engine, uprated gearbox, suspension and an 

ABS braking system to match its power. 

Estate car versions were introduced in October 1988. 

From 1991, engines equipped with catalytic converters were 

progressively introduced, to meet the more stringent exhaust gas 

emission regulations. 

Since its introduction, the 405 range has continually been 

developed. All models have a high trim level, which is very 

comprehensive in the upper model range. 

For the home mechanic, the Peugeot 405 is a straightforward 

vehicle to maintain and repair since design features have been 

incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and 

most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. 

Your Peugeot 405 Manual 

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your 

vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work 

must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), 

provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a 

logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. 

However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work 

yourself. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car 

into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps 

most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a 

garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. 

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of 

the various components, so that their layout can be understood. Then 

the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step 

sequence. 

Peugeot 405 SRi Saloon 

Peugeot 405 GL Estate 

The Peugeot 405 Team 

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and 

enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The 

team responsible for the creation of this book included: 

Authors 

Sub-editor 

Editor & Page Make-up 

Workshop manager 

Photo Scans 

Cover illustration & Line Art 

Wiring diagrams 

Steve Rendle 

Andy Legg 

Carole Turk 

Bob Jex 

Paul Buckland 

John Martin 

Paul Tanswell 

Roger Healing 

Matthew Marke 

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum 

enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine 

maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s 

reliability and preserve its resale value. 

Acknowledgements 

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the 

illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations 

are the copyright of the Peugeot Talbot Motor Company Limited, and 

are used with their permission. Special thanks to Gliddons of Taunton 

who provided several of the project vehicles used in the origination of 

this manual. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who 

provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at 

Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. 

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this 

manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design 

changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which 

they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors 

or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or 

omissions from, the information given. 

Project vehicles 

The vehicles used in the preparation of this manual, and which 

appear in many of the photographic sequences, were a Peugeot 405 

GL Saloon, a Peugeot 405 GTX Estate, a Peugeot 405 GR Saloon, and 

a Peugeot GTX Saloon.

Working on your car can be dangerous. 

This page shows just some of the potential 

risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a 

safety-conscious attitude. 

General hazards 

Scalding 

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion 

tank cap while the engine is hot. 

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or 

power steering fluid may also be dangerously 

hot if the engine has recently been running. 

Burning 

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system 

and from any part of the engine. Brake discs 

and drums can also be extremely hot 

immediately after use. 

Crushing 

• When working under or near 

a raised vehicle, 

always 

supplement the 

jack with axle 

stands, or use 

drive-on 

ramps. 

Never 

venture 

under a car which 

is only supported by a jack. 

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque 

nuts when the vehicle is on stands. 

Initial loosening and final tightening should 

be done with the wheels on the ground. 

Fire 

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is 

explosive. 

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. 

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights 

(including pilot lights) anywhere near a 

vehicle being worked on. Also beware of 

creating sparks 

(electrically or by use of tools). 

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t 

work on the fuel system with the vehicle over 

an inspection pit. 

• Another cause of fire is an electrical 

overload or short-circuit. Take care when 

repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. 

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type 

suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. 

Electric shock 

• Ignition HT 

voltage can be 

dangerous, 

especially to 

people with heart 

problems or a 

pacemaker. Don’t 

work on or near the 

ignition system with 

the engine running or 

the ignition switched on. 

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make 

sure that any mains-operated equipment is 

correctly earthed. Mains power points should 

be protected by a residual current device 

(RCD) circuit breaker. 

Fume or gas intoxication 

• Exhaust fumes are 

poisonous; they often 

contain carbon 

monoxide, which is 

rapidly fatal if inhaled. 

Never run the 

engine in a 

confined space 

such as a garage 

with the doors shut. 

• Fuel vapour is also 

poisonous, as are the vapours from some 

cleaning solvents and paint thinners. 

Poisonous or irritant substances 

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and 

with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially 

antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel 

fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a 

substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, 

seek medical advice. 

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can 

cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a 

barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked 

clothes and do not keep oily rags in 

your pocket. 

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a 

poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame 

(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin 

burns on contact. 

Asbestos 

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled 

or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in 

gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. 

When dealing with such components it is 

safest to assume that they contain asbestos. 

Remember... 

DO 

• Do use eye protection when using power 

tools, and when working under the vehicle. 

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to 

protect your hands when necessary. 

• Do get someone to check periodically 

that all is well when working alone on the 

vehicle. 

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well 

out of the way of moving mechanical parts. 

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before 

working on the vehicle – especially the 

electrical system. 

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking 

equipment has a safe working load rating 

adequate for the job. 

Safety First! 0•5 

Special hazards 

Hydrofluoric acid 

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed 

when certain types of synthetic rubber, found 

in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are 

exposed to temperatures above 400 0 C. The 

rubber changes into a charred or sticky 

substance containing the acid. Once formed, 

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it 

gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to 

amputate the limb concerned. 

• When dealing with a vehicle which has 

suffered a fire, or with components salvaged 

from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves 

and discard them after use. 

The battery 

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which 

attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care 

when topping-up or carrying the battery. 

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery 

is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or 

allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when 

connecting and disconnecting battery 

chargers or jump leads. 

Air bags 

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off 

accidentally. Take care when removing the 

steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage 

instructions may apply. 

Diesel injection equipment 

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very 

high pressure. Take care when working on 

the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. 

Warning: Never expose the hands, 

face or any other part of the body 

to injector spray; the fuel can 

penetrate the skin with potentially fatal 

results. 

A few tips 

DON’T 

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component 

which may be beyond your capability – get 

assistance. 

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take 

unverified short cuts. 

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip 

and cause injury. 

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around 

where someone can trip over them. Mop 

up oil and fuel spills at once. 

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or 

near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside Repairs 

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with 

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find 

more detailed fault finding information at the back of the 

manual, and repair information in the main chapters. 

If your car won’t start 

and the starter motor 

doesn’t turn 

If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the 

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’. 

Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals 

are clean and tight. 

Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the 

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the 

battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting 

(see next page) using a friend’s car. 

If your car won’t start 

even though the starter 

motor turns as normal 

Is there fuel in the tank 

Is there moisture on electrical components under the 

bonnet Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious 

dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol 

product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system 

electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. 

Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector 

and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally 

suffer from damp.) 

Check that the spark plug HT leads 

A (where applicable) are securely 

connected by pushing them home. 

The throttle potentiometer wiring plug 

B may cause problems if not connected 

securely. 

Check the idle speed stepper motor 

C wiring plug for security. 

Check the security and condition of the 

D battery connections. 

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them 

with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp 

E 

Check that the ignition coil wiring plug is 

secure, and spray with water-dispersant 

if necessary.

Roadside Repairs 0•7 

Jump starting will get you out 

of trouble, but you must correct 

whatever made the battery go 

flat in the first place. There are 

three possibilities: 

1The battery has been drained by 

repeated attempts to start, or by 

leaving the lights on. 

2 

The 

charging system is not working 

properly (alternator drivebelt slack 

or broken, alternator wiring fault or 

alternator itself faulty). 

3 

The 

battery itself is at fault 

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out). 

When jump-starting a car using a 

booster battery, observe the following 

precautions: 

4 Before connecting the booster 

battery, make sure that the ignition is 

switched off. 

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment 

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is 

switched off. 

Jump starting 

4 Make sure that the booster battery is 

the same voltage as the discharged 

one in the vehicle. 

4 If the battery is being jump-started 

from the battery in another vehicle, 

the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH 

each other. 

4 Make sure that the transmission is in 

neutral (or PARK, in the case of 

automatic transmission). 

1 2 3 

Connect one end of the red jump lead to 

the positive (+) terminal of the flat 

battery 

Connect the other end of the red lead to 

the positive (+) terminal of the booster 

battery. 

Connect one end of the black jump lead 

to the negative (-) terminal of the 

booster battery 

4 

Connect the other end of the black 

jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the 

engine block, well away from the 

battery, on the vehicle to be started. 

5 

Make sure that the jump leads will not 

come into contact with the fan, drivebelts 

or other moving parts of the 

engine. 

6 

Start the engine using the booster 

battery, then with the engine running at 

idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in 

the reverse order of connection.

0•8 Roadside Repairs 

Wheel changing 

Some of the details shown here will vary 

according to model. For instance, the location 

of the spare wheel and jack is not the same 

on all cars. However, the basic principles 

apply to all vehicles. 

Preparation 

 

 

 

When a puncture occurs, stop as soon 

as it is safe to do so. 

Park on firm level ground, if possible, 

and well out of the way of other traffic. 

Use hazard warning lights if necessary. 

Changing the wheel 

 

 

 

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by 

other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of 

passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by 

the job in hand. 

If you have one, use a warning triangle to 

alert other drivers of your presence. 

Apply the handbrake and engage first or 

reverse gear. 

Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the 

one being removed – a couple of large 

stones will do for this. 

If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of 

wood to spread the load under the foot 

of the jack. 

In the boot, use the wheel brace to Remove the spare wheel from the cradle. 

1 loosen the spare wheel cradle bolt. 2 3 

Use the wheel brace to remove the wheel 

trim. 

4 

Before raising the car, loosen the wheel Locate the jack head in the jacking point 

bolts slightly using the wheelbrace. 5 and use the brace to raise the car until 6 

the wheel is clear of the ground. 

Temporarily place the spare wheel under 

the sill as a precaution should the jack 

topple. 

Remove the bolts and remove the wheel. 

7 Fit the spare wheel and hand-tighten the 

bolts. Lower the car, then tighten the 

wheel bolts firmly. Have the bolts tightened to 

the correct torque at the earliest opportunity. 

Finally... 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the wheel chocks. 

Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. 

Make sure that the spare wheel cradle is properly secured, or it could drop onto the road 

while driving. 

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure 

gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. 

Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Roadside Repairs 0•9 

Identifying leaks 

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or 

obvious wetness under the bonnet or 

underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs 

investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to 

decide where the leak is coming from, 

especially if the engine bay is very dirty 

already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown 

rearwards by the passage of air under the car, 

giving a false impression of where the 

problem lies. 

Warning: Most automotive oils 

and fluids are poisonous. Wash 

them off skin, and change out of 

contaminated clothing, without 

delay. 

The smell of a fluid leaking 

from the car may provide a 

clue to what’s leaking. Some 

fluids are distinctively 

coloured. It may help to clean the car 

carefully and to park it over some clean 

paper overnight as an aid to locating the 

source of the leak. 

Remember that some leaks may only 

occur while the engine is running. 

Sump oil 

Oil from filter 

Gearbox oil 

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... 

Antifreeze 

...or from the base of the oil filter. 

Brake fluid 

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the 

inboard ends of the driveshafts. 

Power steering fluid 

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline 

deposit like this. 

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost 

certainly brake fluid. 

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe 

connectors on the steering rack. 

When all else fails, you may find yourself 

having to get a tow home – or of course you 

may be helping somebody else. Long-distance 

recovery should only be done by a garage or 

breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY 

towing using another car is easy enough, but 

observe the following points: 

Use a proper tow-rope – they are not 

expensive. The vehicle being towed must 

display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. 

Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ 

position when the vehicle is being towed, so 

that the steering lock is released, and that the 

direction indicator and brake lights will work. 

Only attach the tow-rope to the towing 

eyes provided. 

Before being towed, release the handbrake 

and select neutral on the transmission. 

Note that greater-than-usual pedal 

pressure will be required to operate the 

brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only 

operational with the engine running. 

On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual 

steering effort will also be required. 

Towing 

The driver of the car being towed must 

keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid 

snatching. 

Make sure that both drivers know the route 

before setting off. 

Only drive at moderate speeds and keep 

the distance towed to a minimum. Drive 

smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing 

down at junctions. 

On models with automatic transmission, 

special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not 

tow, or transmission damage may result.

0•10 Weekly Checks 

Introduction 

There are some very simple checks which 

need only take a few minutes to carry out, but 

which could save you a lot of inconvenience 

and expense. 

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill 

or special tools, and the small amount of time 

they take to perform could prove to be very 

well spent. 

Underbonnet check points 

Keeping an eye on tyre condition and 

pressures, will not only help to stop them 

wearing out prematurely, but could also save 

your life. 

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical 

problems. Battery-related faults are particularly 

common, and a quick check on a regular basis 

will often prevent the majority of these. 

If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the 

first time you might know about it is when 

your brakes don't work properly. Checking 

the level regularly will give advance warning of 

this kind of problem. 

If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost 

of repairing any engine damage will be far 

greater than fixing the leak, for example. 

1.6 litre 

carburettor 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

Engine oil level dipstick 

Engine oil filler cap 

Coolant filler cap 

Brake fluid reservoir 

Screen washer fluid reservoir 

1.6 litre 

fuel injection 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 





Power steering fluid reservoir 

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Weekly Checks 0•11 

1.9 litre 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 






Screen washer fluid reservoir 

2.0 litre 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 






Screen washer fluid reservoir


Engine oil level 

Before you start 

4 Make sure your car is on level ground. 

4 Check the oil level before the car is driven, 

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been 

switched off. 

If the oil is checked 

immediately after driving the 

vehicle, some of the oil will 

remain in the upper engine 

components, resulting in an inaccurate 

reading on the dipstick! 

The correct oil 

Modern engines place great demands on their 

oil. It is very important that the correct oil for 

your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and 

tyre pressures”). 

Car Care 

l If you have to add oil frequently, you 

should check whether you have any oil leaks. 

Place some clean paper under the car 

overnight, and check for stains in the morning. 

If there are no leaks, the engine may be 

burning oil (see “Fault Finding”). 

l Always maintain the level between the 

upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). 

If the level is too low severe engine damage 

may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the 

engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. 

1 2 

The dipstick top is often brightly coloured 

for easy identification (see “Underbonnet 

check points” on pages 0•10 and 0•11 

for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick. 

3 4 

Note the oil level on the end of the 

dipstick, which should be between the 

upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") 

mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise 

the level from the lower mark to the upper 

mark. 

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove 

all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean 

dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, 

then withdraw it again. 

Oil is added through the filler cap. 

Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a 

funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add 

the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick 

often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left). 

Coolant level 

Warning: DO NOT attempt to 

remove the expansion tank 

pressure cap when the engine 

is hot, as there is a very great 

risk of scalding. Do not leave 

open containers of coolant 

about, as it is poisonous. 

Car Care 

l With a sealed-type cooling system, 

adding coolant should not be necessary on a 

regular basis. If frequent topping-up is 

required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the 

radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of 

staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary. 

l It is important that antifreeze is used in 

the cooling system all year round, not just 

during the winter months. Don’t top-up with 

water alone, as the antifreeze will become 

too diluted. 

1 2 3 

The coolant level varies with engine 

temperature. When cold, the coolant 

level should be on the “MAXI” mark 

(arrowed). When the engine is hot, the level 

may rise slightly above the “MAXI” mark. 

If topping up is necessary, wait until the 

engine is cold. Unscrew the expansion 

tank cap to the first stop, to release any 

pressure present in the system. Push the cap 

down, turn to the second stop, and remove it. 

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze 

through the expansion tank filler neck, 

until the coolant level is up to the “MAXI” 

level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise 

as far as it will go to secure.

Brake fluid level 

Warning: Brake fluid can harm 

your eyes and damage painted 

surfaces, so use extreme 

caution when handling and 

pouring it. 

Warning: Do not use fluid that has been 

standing open for some time, as it absorbs 

moisture from the air, which can cause a 

dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 

The fluid level in the reservoir 

will drop slightly as the brake 

pads wear down, but the 

fluid level must never be 

allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark. 

Before you start: 

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 

4 On models with ABS (anti-lock brakes), 

switch the ignition off and pump the brake 

pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal 

feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch on 

the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will 

be heard running. Wait until the pump 

stops, then switch off the ignition. 

Safety First! 

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup 

this is an indication of a fluid leak 

somewhere in the system, which should be 

investigated immediately. 

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not 

be driven until the braking system has been 

checked. Never take any risks where brakes 

are concerned. 


The “MAX” (A) and “DANGER” (B) marks If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the 

1 are indicated on the side of the reservoir, 2 area around the filler cap with a clean rag 

which is located in the scuttle at the rear before removing the cap. Check the fluid 

driver’s side of the engine compartment. already in the reservoir - the system should be 

The fluid level must be kept between these drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid 

two marks. 

(see Chapter 9 for details). 

Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on Check the operation of the low fluid level 

3 surrounding paintwork. Use only the 4 warning light. Chock the roadwheels, 

specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different release the handbrake, and switch on the 

types of fluid can cause damage to the ignition. Ask an assistant to press the button on 

system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. top of the reservoir. The brake fluid level/ 

After filling to the correct level, refit the cap handbrake warning light should come on. Apply 

securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid. 

the handbrake and switch off the ignition 

Power steering fluid level 

Before you start: 

4 Park the car on level ground. 

4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 

4 The engine should be turned off. 

For the check to be 

accurate, the steering must 

not be turned once the 

engine has been stopped. 

Safety First! 

l The need for frequent topping-up 

indicates a leak, which should be investigated 

immediately. 

The fluid level is visible through the 

1 translucent material of the reservoir, and 

should be between the maximum (A) and 

minimum (B) level lines marked on the side of 

the reservoir. 

If topping-up is necessary, and before Top-up to the “MAX” mark, using the 

2 removing the cap, wipe the area so that 3 specified type of fluid. Take great care 

dirt does not enter the reservoir. Unscrew not to allow dirt to enter the reservoir, 

the cap, allowing the fluid to drain from the and do not overfill the reservoir. When the 

bottom of the cap as it is removed. 

level is correct, refit the cap.


Tyre condition and pressure 

It is very important that tyres are in good 

condition, and at the correct pressure - having 

a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. 

Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh 

braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, 

will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a 

general rule, the front tyres wear out faster 

than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from 

front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in 

more even wear. However, if this is 

completely effective, you may have the 

expense of replacing all four tyres at once! 

Remove any nails or stones embedded in the 

tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause 

deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that 

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so 

that its point of penetration is marked. Then 

immediately change the wheel, and have the 

tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. 

Regularly check the tyres for damage in the 

form of cuts or bulges, especially in the 

sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, 

and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and 

outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for 

signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. 

Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by 

"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may 

also become dented or buckled. A new wheel 

is very often the only way to overcome severe 

damage. 

New tyres should be balanced when they are 

fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance 

them as they wear, or if the balance 

weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. 

Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as 

will the steering and suspension components. 

Wheel imbalance is normally signified by 

vibration, particularly at a certain speed 

(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is 

felt only through the steering, then it is likely 

that just the front wheels need balancing. If, 

however, the vibration is felt through the 

whole car, the rear wheels could be out of 

balance. Wheel balancing should be carried 

out by a tyre dealer or garage. 

Tread Depth - visual check Tread Depth - manual check 

1 2 

The original tyres have tread wear safety Alternatively, tread wear can be 

bands (B), which will appear when the tread monitored with a simple, inexpensive device 

depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The known as a tread depth indicator gauge. 

band positions are indicated by a triangular 

mark on the tyre sidewall (A). 

Tyre tread wear patterns 

3 

Tyre Pressure Check 

Check the tyre pressures regularly with 

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre 

pressures immediately after the vehicle has 

been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. 

Shoulder Wear 

Underinflation (wear on both sides) 

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the 

tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and 

the tread will not sit correctly on the road 

surface. This will cause a loss of grip and 

excessive wear, not to mention the danger of 

sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. 

Check and adjust pressures 

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) 

Repair or renew suspension parts 

Hard cornering 

Reduce speed! 

Centre Wear 

Overinflation 

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the 

centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with 

reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of 

shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. 

Check and adjust pressures 

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s 

tyres to the higher pressures specified for 

maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t 

forget to reduce the pressures to normal 

afterwards. 

Uneven Wear 

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of 

wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and 

garages can check and adjust the wheel 

alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. 

Incorrect camber or castor 


Malfunctioning suspension 


Unbalanced wheel 

Balance tyres 

Incorrect toe setting 

Adjust front wheel alignment 

Note: The feathered edge of the tread which 

typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Screen washer fluid level 

Screenwash additives not only keep the 

winscreen clean during foul weather, they also 

prevent the washer system freezing in cold 

weather - which is when you are likely to need 

it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the 

screenwash will become too diluted, and will 


freeze during cold weather. On no account 

use coolant antifreeze in the washer system 

- this could discolour or damage paintwork. 

The windscreen/headlight washer fluid 

1 reservoir is located in the scuttle at the 

rear right-hand corner of the engine 

compartment. 

On Estate models, the tailgate washer 

2 fluid reservoir is located behind a hinged 

cover on the right-hand side of the 

luggage compartment. 

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a 

3 screenwash additive should be added in 

the quantities recommended on the 

bottle. 

Wiper blades 

Check the condition of the wiper blades; 

1 if they are cracked or show any signs of 

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is 

smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of 

vision, wiper blades should be renewed 

annually, as a matter of course. To remove a 

front wiper blade, first prise off the securing 

clips, and disconnect the washer tube from 

the arm. 

Pull the arm fully away from the glass 

2 until it locks. Swivel the blade through 

90°, then pull up the blade securing clip, 

and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked 

end. 

On Estate models, to remove a tailgate 

3 wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from 

the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade 

through 90°, then press the locking tab, and 

slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.


Battery 

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the 

vehicle battery, read the precautions given in 

"Safety first" at the start of this manual. 

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good 

condition, and that the clamp is tight. 

Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the 

battery itself can be removed with a solution 

of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all 

cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts 

damaged by corrosion should be covered 

with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 

4 Periodically (approximately every three 

months), check the charge condition of the 

battery as described in Chapter 5A. 

4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump 

start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs. 

The battery is located on the left-hand 

1 side of the engine compartment. The 

exterior of the battery should be 

inspected periodically for damage such as a 

cracked case or cover. 

Check the tightness of the battery cable 

2 clamps (A) to ensure good electrical 

connections. You should not be able to 

move them. Also check each cable (B) for 

cracks and frayed conductors. 

Battery corrosion can be kept to a 

minimum by applying a layer of 

petroleum jelly to the clamps and 

terminals after they are reconnected. 

If corrosion (white fluffy deposits) is 

3 evident, remove the cables from the 

battery terminals, clean them with a small 

wire brush, then refit them. Tools for cleaning 

the battery post and terminals are available. 

4 

Note that the battery negative terminal 

stud can be removed for cleaning or 

renewal. Unscrew the lead clamp, then pull off 

the plastic insulator, and lever off the stud and 

cover. 

Bulbs and fuses 

4 Check all external lights and the horn. 

Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 

12 for details if any of the circuits are 

found to be inoperative. 

4 Visually check all accessible wiring 

connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for 

security, and for signs of chafing or damage. 

If you need to check your 

brake lights and indicators 

unaided, back up to a wall or 

garage door and operate the 

lights. The reflected light should show 

if they are working properly. 

1 

If a single indicator light, stop-light or 

headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb 

has blown and will need to be replaced. 

Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights 

have failed, it is possible that the switch 

has failed (see Chapter 9). 

If more than one indicator light or tail light 

2 has failed it is likely that either a fuse has 

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit 

(see Chapter 12). The fuses are located 

behind a panel on the bottom of the driver’s 

side lower facia panel. 

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out 

3 and fit a new fuse of the correct rating 

(see wiring diagrams in Chapter 12). If the 

fuse blows again, it is important that you find 

out why - a complete checking procedure is 

given in Chapter 12.

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures 0•17 

Lubricants and fluids 

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to 

20W/50, to API SG/CD or better 

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze 

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity 75W/80W, to API GL5 

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF 

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4 

Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF 

Tyre pressures 

Saloon models Front Rear 

165/70 R 14 T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi) 

175/70 R 14 T tyres: 

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi) 

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi) 

185/65 R 14 H tyres 

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi) 

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi) 

195/55 R 15 V tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi) 

Estate models 

175/70 R 14 T tyres: 

Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.3 bars (33 psi) 

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi) 

185/65 R 14 H tyres: 

Normal load: 

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi) 

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.3 bars (33 psi) 

Full load: 

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi) 

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi) 

Note: Refer to the tyre pressure data label at the bottom of the rear edge of the driver’s door (visible when 

the door is open) for the correct tyre pressures for your particular vehicle. Pressures apply only to originalequipment 

tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or 

supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

Peugeot 405 (petrol) Service and Repair Manual

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