Tiffany Derry’s Satisfying Seafood Gumbo Is a Family Heirloom

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Succulent blue crabs make this gumbo recipe a seasonal seafood supper.

Seafood Gumbo
Photo:

Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Christina Daley

Active Time:
1 hr
Total Time:
2 hrs 10 mins
Yield:
12 servings

“Gumbo is my favorite food group,” says Tiffany Derry, of Roots Southern Table in Dallas. “Growing up, my grandmother would make gigantic pots of gumbo, and we would eat it all day and night. My mother soon after started to take over making it and improved the recipe. Now they say I have done the same.”

Today, Derry’s recipe for Seafood Gumbo includes chicken breasts and thighs, andouille sausage, blue crabs, shrimp, and a generous amount of okra, which is roasted before getting stirred into the gumbo to dry out its exterior and minimize its naturally slippery texture. 

Frequently asked questions

What should I serve with gumbo?

Gumbo is a beloved Southern dish and goes great with hearty starchy sides. “Cornbread was always on the table,” Derry recalls. Her Cheddar, Corn, and Jalapeno Cast-Iron Cornbread goes great with this gumbo. Hush puppies or rice are also good with gumbo. 

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

For a more seafood-forward gumbo, replace half of the chicken stock with seafood or fish stock.  To clean blue crabs, pull off the top shell and apron (the triangular piece on the back), remove the gills, and rinse clean. Filé powder, made from sassafras leaves, is available at specialty spice stores or at myspicesage.com.

Cooking techniques

The first step for preparing gumbo is making a good roux. Roux is both a thickening agent and a flavoring agent in many Creole dishes, including gumbo. Continually whisking the flour and butter mixture promotes even browning and prevents scorching on the bottom. Keep a close eye on the roux as it can go from rich, chocolaty brown to scorched in a matter of minutes.

Suggested pairing

To balance the heat from the andouille sausage, cayenne pepper, and hot sauce, opt for a rich, dark brown ale like Abita Brewing Company Turbodog.

Make ahead

Gumbo can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Ingredients

  • 3/4 cup canola oil

  • 1 cup all purpose flour (about 4 1/4 ounces)

  • 1 large yellow onion, chopped (about 2 cups)

  • 2 large celery stalks, chopped (about 1 cup)

  • 1 green bell pepper, chopped (about 1 cup)

  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 4 teaspoons)

  • 1 cup tomato puree (from 1 [15-ounce] can)

  • 2 tablespoons kosher salt

  • 1 tablespoon black pepper

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder

  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder

  • 1 teaspoon paprika

  • 1 teaspoon dried or fresh thyme leaves

  • 3 dried bay leaves

  • 4 quarts chicken stock

  • 1 pound fresh or thawed frozen okra, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices (about 4 cups)

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 1/2 pounds roasted boneless, skinless chicken breasts and thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups)

  • 8 ounces andouille sausage (such as Zummo’s), halved lengthwise and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

  • 2 (6-ounce) raw blue crabs, cleaned and quartered

  • 6 dashes (about 1 1/2 teaspoons) hot sauce (such as Crystal or Louisiana), plus more for serving

  • 2 tablespoons filé powder, plus more for garnish

  • 1 pound raw large shrimp, peeled and deveined

  • 1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  • 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, plus more for garnish

  • Cooked jasmine rice and cornbread, for serving

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat canola oil in a large stockpot over medium until shimmering, about 5 minutes. Gradually add flour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until well combined. Cook, stirring often, until roux is smooth and chocolate brown in color, about 15 minutes. (Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pot as you stir to prevent the roux from scorching.)

  2. Add onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic to roux; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add tomato puree, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, thyme, and bay leaves; stir to combine. Gradually stir in stock until smooth. Bring to a boil over medium, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low, and gently simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes, skimming off any oil and white bits that rise to the surface.

  3. Toss together okra and olive oil on a large rimmed baking sheet until evenly coated. Spread in an even layer, and roast in preheated oven until okra is slightly dry and firm to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes.

  4. Stir roasted okra, chicken, and andouille sausage into mixture in stockpot; simmer over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 25 minutes. Stir in crabs and hot sauce; cook until crabs are bright red, about 5 minutes. Stir in filé powder quickly to prevent lumps. Stir in shrimp, parsley, and scallions. Turn off heat; let stand, uncovered, until shrimp are pink and cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaves.

  5. To serve, ladle gumbo into shallow bowls, and top each with a heaping spoonful of rice. Garnish with scallions and filé powder. Serve with additional rice, cornbread, and additional hot sauce.

Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, October 2023

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